Upala
Upala is a quiet, rural area nestled in the northern regions of Costa Rica’s Alajuela Province, right along the border of Nicaragua. Surrounded by lush countryside, rivers, and volcanic landscapes, it serves as a gateway to a lesser-explored side of the country. Upala offers access to nearby natural wonders like Tenorio Volcano National Park and the famous Río Celeste, and across the border, Lake Cocibolca (Lake Nicaragua), the largest lake in Central America. Although remote, it serves as a center for the local agricultral industry, famous for its cacao and pineapple production. But the main reason to come to Upala and more specifically, Bijagua, is to experience the magical rainforest in this little-known part of Costa Rica.
Where to Stay
The highlight of this area is my favorite upscale and boutique hotel, Origins Luxury Lodge. Nestled high in the Costa Rican mountainside in a lush rainforest, Origins spans across 111 acres, where 96% of the land is protected sanctuary for wildlife and rainforest growth. There are six intimate lodges, each featuring handcrafted canopy beds, panoramic 180-degree views of the valley, volcanoes and distant Lake Nicaragua, and wood‑fired plunge pools on private terraces. There’s also a grand three‑bedroom Vertigo villa for larger parties.
When you’re not relaxing in your private bungalow – wellness, adventure, and sustainability are abundant here:
- Sunrise yoga on the open-air Koora deck
- Holistic treatments in the Laka-Tii spa
- Guided nature & medicinal hikes with flora and fauna experts
- Jungle waterfalls hikes to horseback rides through the mountain
- Medicinal & Cocktail Classes with the friendly staff
- Farm & Wildlife tours with Origins expert guides. Over 150 bird species have been spotted on the property!
The food at Origins is next-level. Michelin-starred chef Jean‑Luc L’Hourre and his team craft beautiful, farm-to-table meals using ingredients sourced right from the lodge’s own organic gardens, farms, and even their own honeybees.
For more on my Origin Luxury Lodge stay, check out my Honeymoon in Costa Rica Itinerary
Wandering Here
Landing Here
Liberia Guanacaste Airport (LIR) is the main international airport serving the region, about a 2 hour drive to Upala. Resorts & vacation packages will provide you with transportation, or you can rent a car – but give yourself a few hours to get there.
Getting Around
You can rent a car if you plan to explore on your own, but I recommend taking advantage of the transportation provided by your resort or tour excursions. Taxis are available but limited, and Uber is not widely used in this area.
What to Pack
Due to the many rainforests in Upala, it is quite wet year-round and boasting with wildlife. Make sure to bring bug spray, sun screen and light-weight, breathable clothing. Evenings can cool off, so a light jacket is also a good idea.
Where to Wander
Rio Celeste
Tucked inside Tenorio Volcano National Park, Río Celeste is famous for its unreal, milky-blue color, thanks to a natural chemical reaction where two rivers meet. A moderate hike through lush rainforest takes you to the iconic Río Celeste Waterfall, one of the most beautiful and iconic spots in Costa Rica. Keep an eye out for monkeys, toucans, and sloths along the trail.
Rincón de la Vieja National Park
If you’re up for a mix of adventure and geothermal wonders, this volcanic park delivers. Think bubbling mud pots, steaming fumaroles, waterfalls, and jungle trails that wind through wild terrain. It’s also home to hot springs and a variety of trails, some flat and easy, others more challenging with rewarding viewpoints. You might even spot an ocelot if you’re lucky.
Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge
Often called one of the most important wetlands in Central America, Caño Negro is a paradise for birdwatchers and animal lovers. The best way to explore it is by boat: float through the flooded forests and slow rivers, spotting everything from sloths and monkeys to caimans, iguanas, and hundreds of bird species. It’s especially stunning during the rainy season, when the refuge transforms into a vast aquatic ecosystem.
Tapir Valley Nature Reserve
This hidden gem near Bijagua is a haven for biodiversity and conservation. Once a cattle pasture, Tapir Valley has been lovingly restored into a private reserve where endangered species like the Baird’s Tapir roam free. With well-maintained trails and expert guides, it’s perfect for birdwatching, night walks, and learning about reforestation. It feels untouched, quiet, and sacred—a place where the rainforest breathes around you.
Wanderer Adventures
Horseback
Saddle up and explore the landscape the traditional way, leading you through rolling pastures, up into the foothills, and down forested trails with stunning volcano views. It’s peaceful, nostalgic, and a wonderful way to slow down and soak in the scenery.
Tenorio Volcano
Though you can’t hike all the way to the top of Tenorio Volcano, the trails in the national park take you past bubbling hot springs, bright mineral rivers, and steaming vents that hint at the volcano’s power beneath.
Kayak/Tubing
For a more adventurous way to explore the rivers around Upala, hop in a kayak or tube and let the current guide you. The Río Celeste or Río Niño are perfect for beginners, while more active rivers offer just enough adrenaline. You’ll glide through jungle canopies and might spot monkeys or birds darting past the water.
Zipline
Feel the rush as you zip through the forest canopy with views of mountains, rivers, and rainforest all around you. Some zip line tours near Upala include treetop platforms, rope bridges, and even rappelling. It’s a must-do if you love adrenaline and want a bird’s-eye view of this wild region.
Chocolate Tour
Costa Rica’s cacao roots run deep, and taking a chocolate tour is both tasty and eye-opening. You’ll learn how cacao is harvested, fermented, and transformed into rich chocolate. Some tours even let you make your own bar from scratch. It’s a great way to support local farms and connect with the culture through flavor.
Hanging Bridge Walks
Walk among the treetops on suspension bridges that weave through the forest canopy. These hanging bridges give you a unique vantage point to spot birds, sloths, and orchids nestled high in the trees. It’s both serene and a little thrilling—especially when the forest mist starts to roll in.
Before You Wander
While Spanish is the native language, many Costa Rican’s speaks English, especially in the tourist areas.
The weather in Costa Rica is generally quite wet year-round. This is because there are many rainforests in Upala, and many things grow. But it’s less wet from December to April, the traditional dry season in Costa Rica. It’s worth noting that this reason sees quite a bit of flooding during a heavy rainy season, particularly in September, October, and November. Temperatures remain hot and humid all year round.
The currency in Costa Rica is the Costa Rican Colón, but many places will also accept the US Dollar.
Majority of businesses accept major credit cards and USD cash. If using cash, exchanges rate may vary.
This is a safe part of Costa Rica as far as crime goes. It’s a rural area with a low population density. However, you should take care here during the peak of the rainy season when flooding can occur.
Water in this region is generally not safe to drink, so I suggest bringing a water bottle and filling it up at filtered stations.
Transportation is scarce in this region as it is remote. Taxi’s are available, while Ubers may not be as accessible.
Costa Rica observes central-standard time zone year round.
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June 20, 2025
